How to Fix a Dripping Tap: Causes and Solutions

A dripping tap is one of the most common and most ignored plumbing problems in the home. It seems minor, but a tap dripping once per second wastes over 15,000 litres of water per year — enough to fill a small swimming pool. That adds a noticeable amount to your water bill if you are on a meter. Fortunately, most dripping taps can be fixed in under an hour with basic tools.

Why Taps Drip

Every tap has an internal mechanism that creates a watertight seal when the tap is closed. When that seal wears out, water forces past it and drips from the spout. The type of seal depends on the type of tap.

Traditional Taps (Rising Spindle)

These are the classic taps with separate hot and cold handles that you twist open and closed. Inside, a rubber washer at the base of the spindle presses against a brass seat to stop the flow. Over time, the washer hardens, cracks or wears unevenly, and the seal fails.

Modern Mixer Taps (Ceramic Disc)

Most mixer taps made in the last 20 years use ceramic disc cartridges instead of rubber washers. Two flat ceramic discs with holes rotate against each other. When the holes align, water flows. When they do not, the flow is blocked. Ceramic discs are more durable than rubber washers but can still fail due to limescale buildup, chipping or general wear.

Quarter-Turn Taps

These are single taps (not mixers) that use a ceramic disc cartridge and open fully with a quarter turn. They look like traditional taps but operate like modern cartridge taps. The repair process is the same as for ceramic disc mixer taps.

Monobloc Mixer Taps

The most common type in modern kitchens. A single lever controls both temperature and flow. Inside is a cartridge (usually 35mm or 40mm) that contains ceramic discs and O-ring seals. Drips from the spout usually mean the cartridge needs replacing. Leaks from the base usually mean the O-rings have failed.

Tools You Will Need

Adjustable spanner or set of spanners
Flat-head and cross-head screwdrivers
Tap cartridge or washer (take the old one to a plumbing supplier to match it)
Cloth or towel
Penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) for seized fittings

Before You Start

Turn Off the Water

This is essential. Locate the isolation valve for the tap — it is usually on the pipe directly below the tap, either under the sink or behind a bath panel. Turn it 90 degrees with a flat-head screwdriver so the slot is across the pipe (perpendicular to the flow direction).

If there is no isolation valve, turn off the water at the main stopcock, usually located under the kitchen sink or where the supply pipe enters the house.

Open the Tap

After turning off the supply, open the tap fully to drain any remaining water from the pipe.

Put the Plug In

Small parts can easily fall down the drain. Put the plug in the sink or cover the drain before dismantling anything.

Fixing a Traditional Tap (Washer Replacement)

**Remove the handle.** Prise off the decorative cap on top of the handle (marked H or C) with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath is a screw — remove it and lift off the handle.

**Remove the shroud.** The chrome shroud (cover) unscrews by hand or with a spanner. If it is stuck, wrap it in a cloth and use an adjustable spanner to avoid scratching.

**Remove the headgear.** The brass headgear assembly is the main body of the tap mechanism. Unscrew it anticlockwise with a spanner. It may be tight — hold the tap body steady with your other hand to avoid straining the pipework.

**Replace the washer.** At the bottom of the headgear, you will see a small rubber washer held in place by a nut or a press fit. Remove the old washer and replace it with a new one of the same size. Standard sizes are 1/2 inch for basin taps and 3/4 inch for bath taps.

**Check the seat.** While the headgear is out, look at the brass seat inside the tap body. If it is scored or pitted, the new washer will not seal properly. A reseating tool can grind it smooth, or a plumber can do this for you.

**Reassemble.** Screw the headgear back in, replace the shroud, refit the handle and screw, and snap the decorative cap back on.

**Turn the water back on.** Close the tap, open the isolation valve and check for drips.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Tap (Cartridge Replacement)

**Remove the handle.** Same as above — prise off the decorative cap, remove the screw, lift off the handle.

**Remove the cartridge.** The ceramic disc cartridge is a cylindrical unit that unscrews or lifts out. Some are held by a brass retaining nut, others by a clip. Note the orientation before removing it.

**Buy the correct replacement.** Ceramic disc cartridges are not universal. Take the old one to a plumbing supplier or search online using the tap manufacturer and model. Getting the wrong cartridge is the most common reason this repair fails.

**Fit the new cartridge.** Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation as the old one. Tighten the retaining nut if applicable.

**Reassemble and test.** Refit the handle, turn on the water and check for drips.

Fixing a Monobloc Mixer Tap (Cartridge or O-Ring)

Drip from the Spout

This usually means the main cartridge has failed.

Remove the lever handle (usually a grub screw under a small cap at the front or rear of the lever)

Remove any retaining clip or dome cover

Unscrew the cartridge retaining nut

Lift out the cartridge and replace it with the correct match

Reassemble

Leak from the Base

Water seeping around the base of the tap body is caused by failed O-rings.

Remove the handle and any retaining parts as above

Lift the spout body upwards off the base (it may need gentle twisting)

You will see one or two rubber O-rings around the base

Replace them with the correct size (take the old ones to match)

Apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the new O-rings before refitting

Push the spout body back down and reassemble

When to Call a Plumber

While tap repair is within the capability of most DIYers, there are situations where a plumber is the better option.

**The tap is old and seized.** Forcing corroded fittings risks snapping the tap or damaging the pipework. An experienced plumber knows how to free seized fittings safely.
**You cannot identify the cartridge.** Some taps use proprietary cartridges that are difficult to source. A plumber with trade supplier accounts can usually get hold of obscure parts.
**The tap seat is badly damaged.** A worn seat needs regrinding with a specialist tool. Most homeowners do not own one.
**You cannot isolate the water.** If there is no isolation valve and your stopcock is old or does not fully close, work on any tap carries a risk of flooding. Get a plumber to fit isolation valves while they are there — it is a small job that makes future repairs much easier.
**You would rather not.** There is no shame in calling a professional. A plumber will fix a dripping tap in 15 to 30 minutes, and it is a straightforward, affordable callout. If you are not confident tackling it yourself, it is money well spent.

Preventing Drips

Do not overtighten taps when closing them. Firm is enough — forcing the handle compresses the washer or disc harder than necessary and accelerates wear.
In hard water areas, descale your taps and cartridges annually. Limescale buildup on ceramic discs is a common cause of failure.
If you are fitting new taps, choose a reputable brand with readily available spare parts. Cheap taps with proprietary cartridges become disposable when the cartridge fails and cannot be matched.

How to Fix a Dripping Tap: Causes and Solutions